Dave Ford Does Earth

Posted by Dave Ford

I have spent the last four days in Buenos Aires again. I love this city and could definitely live here. We have managed to knock out much of the traditional site seeing. I toured the barrios of Recoleta, Palermo, and Boca. I also had the interesting experience of enjoying Australia Day abroad. I did not even know there was such thing as Australia day before I got on the road.

When we got back to BA, we decided to stay in the legendary Milhouse Hostel–named after the Simpson’s character–once again. We have begun to refer to it as the “Black Hole” as it sucks you in.  Milhouse has a very friendly staff, is very clean, and holds up to 150 backpackers. The problem is that it holds up to 150 backpackers. It is very easy to get stuck sharing stories and cocktails for hours on end. Buenos Aires can quickly become an afterthough after a few hours at Milhouse. This time in B.A we have done a much better job of circumventing the magnetic force of the ¨the black hole¨.

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I have been using  the “Time Out” guide to Buenos Aires, a travel guide recommended to me by multiple sources to help with my exploration. Last week I decided to take a tour by myself through the best barrio in town, Recoleta.

My relaxed stroll started at the French embassy on Nuevo de Julio and came to an end at the British embassy on a high hill overlooking the barrio of Palermo. The main strip of Recoleta is very posh. Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Ralph Lauren, and Salvator Ferignamo all have boutiques on the main drag.  According to the travel guide, the architecture is heavily influenced by the French. At the point I read this, I came to the conclusion that I know about as much about architecture as I do about nuclear physics. Regardless, I strutted along the scenic root and decided to dive into a coffee shop. There I met Julio, the manager of the shop, and former resident of New York. Over a cappuccino and pastry we had a in depth conversation about the state of both Argentina and Estados Unitos. Apparently Julio was blocks away from Wall Street when the first plane crashed into the twin towers in New York. After 9-11, he could not handle the new stress and moved back to Buenos Aires. 2001 is also the year that Argentina had their economic collapse. They had 4 presidents in 5 days, riots, protests, and are still recovering.

On both counts we were talking about depressing events.  Julio and I both agreed that 2001 was a piece of shit year.  We also chatted about Argentinian economics. Did you know that Argentina has one of the worlds largest fresh water supplies? Julio is convinced that in 75 years water will be the worlds new “oil”. He might be right, but I probably should not be getting all of my economic advice from coffee shop managers.

After satisfying my caffeine addiction I strolled on.

The centerpiece of Recoleta is the Recoleta cemetery. This is where Eva ¨Evita¨ Peron is buried.

The tombs are elaborate, ornate, and creepy to say the least. They stand 20 feet tall in some areas. Most have glass windows so you can look directly in and see the actual coffins. The cemetary houses the elite of the elite. Presidents, professors, scholars, bishops, and anyone of major importance in Buenos Aires has been laid to rest in Recoleta Cemetery.

It is a bit out of the ordinary but the cemetary also houses dozens of stray cats. Its just plain weird.. Down every aisle you see a cat or two. They sit on the tombs, around the tombs, and probably in the tombs. They weave in and out of the crowds of tourists without a care in the world. They own the place, and run the show. Maybe the spirits of the dead dignitaries live on through the cats. Or, maybe they are just a bunch of stray cats that have wild cat sex on the graves all night. You decide!

The walking tour took me past more Victorian architecture, restaurants with elaborate outdoor cafes, and dog shit. When I say dog shit, I mean loads and loads of dog shit. Luckily, I have not stepped in any yet. But, by expressing this point I am damning myself to step in the next steamy pile. It is as if the dogs are competing to cover every square inch of sidewalk in the city. A lot of these dogs are pretty damn big as well. We are not talking about a bunch of toy poodles running around.  The walking tour ended at the British embassy on top of a huge hill overlooking Palermo.

I wrote this in my journal while sitting on the monument below:

I am sitting on a hilltop monument at the end of my walk through Recoleta, Buenos Aires most exclusive barrio. The monument is covered with graffiti but the view is brilliant. I am overlooking the parks in Palermo at just about sunset. It has to be exactly 70 degrees. There is not a cloud in the sky except a few improving the suns fading image on the horizon. I feel very at peace with everything in my life at this exact moment. Its good to get away with my thoughts for a while. So far on this trip, I have been anything but alone. This city is so elegant, and the people are by and large generous and friendly.  I have heard and read many comparisons between Buenos Aires and Paris. I have never been to Paris. All I know is that I cannot compare this place to anywhere I have ever traveled before. It is a city all unto its self and it has provided a completely new and remarkable experience for me.

The Buenos Aires Zoo 

The next day we went to Palermo and somehow ended up at the zoo. It was typical of any other zoo I have been too. The Polar Bears were trying to figure out why the hell it was 90 degrees outside, idiots were feeding the antelope popcorn, and a young chimp spent much of his time throwing rocks–or was it feces– at a zoo keeper. It was depressing. The Aussies got a kick out of the fact that kangaroos were one of the main attractions. Apparently, the beloved kangaroos of Australia are much like deer in the eastern United States and spend a great deal of their time getting smashed by oncoming automobiles.

La Bombonera

“The BV show” and I toured the barrio of Boca. It is one of the poorer areas in town and we were advised to stay on the main strip. Straying could be a problem. Somehow, against our best judgment we decided to tour Boca Juniors stadium, La Bombonera. As great as the River vs Boca game had been last week, we figured it could be a good time. Conversely, it was hands down, the worst tour of anything I have ever been a part of. I almost fell asleep, it was pouring down raining, and the stadium is more or less a giant slab of concrete. The only highlight was finding out about all of the things that the spectators throw at the players when they are not playing well. Batteries, coins, cigarette lighters, and rocks are among the fan favorites. Please do not forward this to any Argentinian Boca fans as I may be hunted down and knifed. 

 Australia Day

Australia Day was pretty interesting. I thought is was Australians 4th of July–the day the Aussies got their political independance from England. But, after doing some research I found out it was when the Brits landed in Sydney in the 1700´s and first established Australia as a colony. In Milhouse we probably had about 40 Aussies participating in the festivities. Australian music blared–Crowded House, Hilltop Hoods, ACDC, Men in Hats–and most of my Australian compadres were decked head to toe in Australian gear. For whatever reason, most have beach towels of the Austrailian flag. The night was crazy. We went out to a club at the Argentine standard time of 2:30 am and got back as the sun rose. I had the privelege of helping to peel a few of my poor Aussie friends off of the floor in the early morning hours. All in all, it was very good times. I also discovered that there is a genuine New Zealand/Australia rivalry. Some of the New Zealanders were not feeling the Aussie day celebrations one bit. It reminds me of the way many Canadians feel about the U.S.

Side note: Can you imagine if I rocked the American Flag beach towel? It must be nice to be able to be so over-the-top patriotic in such a far away land.

Pictured: Aussie day at Milhouse Hostel, Buenos Aires

One the more bizarre things I have observed about Buenos Aires involve their poorest of citizens. I do not remember many instances of people coming up to me and begging for money. Instead of seeing people standing at corners with signs like in the US, people stand at the corners and juggle 4 or 5 balls. Some of these guys are talented. Others are plain and simply terrible. Another oddity, throughout the day and the night you see people pick through the cities trash cans. They are not looking for food. They are searching and sorting cardboard, glass, plastic, and anything else that can be recycled. These people work their asses off. At the end of the day they roll their carts miles away to Buenos Aires recycling plant and get paid pennies per kilo of ¨trash¨. They are not being paid by the state. They get up everyday and choose this life for themselves.

Notes:

>It is time to start heading west and south. Hopefully I will update my Cordoba and Mendoza experiences later this week.

>Carrying around a 1200 page book is outrageous. It adds 5 pounds to my gear. Somehow I think it will be worth it.

>Someone please help me figure out how to convert kilos to pounds. Why is the US the only country in the world to not use the metric system? Moreover, why do I have no idea how to convert to the metric system?  Whats a liter? How many kilos in 215 pounds? Whats a fortnight? Whats the meaning of life? I am an idiot for not knowing all of this.

>Super panchos are the best thing ever. Think really long hot dog with ketchup, mayo, cheese, mustard, and tiny french fries sprinkled on top.

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